Tuesday 3 September 2024
Set off at 7.30 am and drove to Portsmouth for the
10.30pm ferry to Bilbao. A wonderful crossing, sunshine and calm sea, good food
and entertainment. Stopped to fill in time on way to Portsmouth at Royal Victoria
Country Park at Hamble which used to house the injured from the 2 wars.
Thursday 5 September
Arrived at Bilbao at 8am but took an hour and half to
get off due to faulty ramp and broken car. No checks apart from passports.
Used Johns wonderful Navmii app which worked without
data roaming and were spot on. Got to Lidl in Torrelavega then on to Camping La Viorna near Potes in the Picos de Europa.
Rained from lunchtime and took a while going on n621
through a narrow gorge that had endless roadworks.
Arrived at site around 4pm and Roy set up in the rain.
Site has wifi!
Friday 6 September
Cloudy at first then sunshine and warm. We walked from the campsite into Potes then did part of a hike from the sunflower book. All good tracks, got a bit wrong in Frama and a lovely lady sent us the right way but we went wrong again. Backtracked found where wrong and took this very steep track up to Lubayo. Sort of deserted but we think they use either in the summer or winter for cattle. Lovely views of the eastern massif of the Picos de Europa. Retraced our route and back to site. Potes is a very pretty town as we wandered back through.
CAMPING LA VIORNA
ON WAY TO POTES
POTES
LUBAYO
RED SQUIRREL
VIEW OF EASTERN MASSIF
LOTS OF VINEYARDS READY TO PICK
Saturday 7 September
Several changes of plans within an hour. First off to cable car, cloudy on tops sO went back and drove (not walked as Roy first suggested) to Monasterio de Santo Toribio de Liebana up the road from our site.
Lovely monastery which houses a cross containing part of the original cross Jesus was crucified on (so the y believe) Good views from mirador.
SANTO TORIBIO LA CAPILLA DEL LIGNUM CRUCIS
VIEWPOINT NEAR MONASTERY
Back to site then decided to visit some lakes which were about 35 miles away. We drove over the Puerto de San Glorio which was a narrow switch back road with stunning views. Stopped at the top and walked to viewpoints at Collada de Llesba then drove back as ran out of time for the lakes. A superb day!
MIRADOR DE CORZO
COLLADO DE LLESBA
Sunday 8 September
A wonderful day drove to Fuente De and took the longest single span cable car in Europe to the top - 4 minutes! 43 euros for us both.
Sunshine and clouds, we walked to the Hotel Refugio de Aliva and back. Met a lovely young couple Sam and Torda from Spain and Germany again from our campsite and sat with them at the hotel cafe then gave then a lift back to their car as they walked up.
Stunning views of magnificent peaks.
Monday 9th September
A glorious sunny hot day. We drove to Cosgaya and did a 5
mile circular walk up a narrow valley following the river with amny small
waterfalls but no sun, finally crossed to the other side and found the sun and
lovely views of the mountains. Had our lunch back at the car park on a picnic
table. Back to the site and had a super swim and sunbathe.
sunrise view from siteMoved to Avin near Cangas de Onis drove through the narrow gorge with 5 lots of roadworks. Camping Picos de Europa is superb, indoor pool, restaurant wifi all for 23 E
Drove into Cangas and had help from 3 Spanish guys to get our parking ticket 1.20 for 2 hours! Had a look at the church, the Romano bridge and found Super mercados Dia and got supplies. bit of drizzle in the evening but no rain in day as was forecast.
roadworks on narrow gorge
PUENTE ROMANO
A magnificent day! Drove half an hour to Poncebos to hike the classic walk through the Garganta del Cares (the throat of the Rio Cares).The trail was constructed by the electricity company Viesgo in the 1940s in order to maintain the hydroelectric canal that runs between Cain and Camarmena. It took us 6 hours including stops and we think it was about 12 miles. An awesome experience.
ROAD UP TO PONCEBOS
LOOKING DOWN TO RIO CARES
PUENTE BOLIN OUR TURN AROUND PLACE
Thursday 12th September
Rained all day, arrived at Camping Gaivota about 2.30. 17E a night incl. electric and wifi. Tight site had to use motor mover and people to push up step!
Had a walk around village nearby and back along beach path. saw some surfers.
Friday 13th September
Drove along the coastal road to Valdovino, really pretty in
places. Then motorway was not yet finished.
Missed site asked at the other site which I think we should
have chosen instead of Camping A Lagoa, next to beach but just a grassy field,
very basic and nmost expensive as doesn’t start ACSI until 15th. £25
a night.
The fridge would not light up, Roy spent ages pulled it all
out couldn’t find a definite fault. We went out in car and asked other campsite
girl where the nearest caravan service area was, it’s A Coruna open Monday ant
11am
When we came back fridge was on! Had a walk after dinner along the boardwalk and
watched the sun go down.
MIRADOR DE SAN ROMAN ON WAY TO VALDOVINO
VALDOVINO SUNSET AT VALDOVINO
CAMPING A LAGOA VALDOVINO
Saturday 14 September
Glorious sunny day, drove to Cedeira and looked round town, pretty, market and had coffee and sausage on bread in cafe.
Visitor centre superb, gave us lots of things to view. Drove to highest cliffs in Europe stopping at many miradors. Went to Santo Andres de Teixido the second most famous pilgrimage after Santiago. Beautiful.
VIEW FROM LIGHTHOUSE
HUGE WINDFARM
VIEW FROM THE HURRICANE WINDS AT THE HIGHEST CLIFFS IN EUROPE
MIRADOR DE GARITA DA HERBEIRA HIGHEST CLIFF IN EUROPE
COULD NOT STAND IN THESE WINDS, DRESS BLEW UP TO SHOW KNICKERS!
SANTO ANDRES DE TEIXIDO. PILGRIMAGE PLACE 2ND TO SANTIAGO
MY MEAL AT NOSTRUM IN VALDOVINO ROYS MEAL
Sunday 15 SeptemberDecided to stay another day and do nothing much. Sunny and hot. Had a walk along the lagoon, saw lots of birds and herons. Went down on the the beach and had a paddle.
DRINK AT SUNSET AT MARE NOSTRUM
Monday 16 September
A hot sunny day 25oC. Left at 10am and followed Roy's map instructions worked fine after turn around near Ferrol. Stopped for coffee, near site used Navmii which was spot on.
Site under trees. Arrived around 1pm. Not busy. Had a walk using Camino signs towards Santiago. Did about 4km and got to edge of city. Lots and lots of pilgrims walking past the site.
CAMPING PELEGRINO SAN MARCOS
ROY WITH THE CAMINO SIGNS
Tuesday 17 September
Super sunny day, asked girl where bus went from. just outside site every hour. We waited 70 minutes - no bus so drove car to San Marcos and parked in big carpark outside a closed cafe. Walked into Santiago, 6.7km each way. So pleased we got to walk made it more special. The Cathedral was stunning, all the surrounding buildings superb. Went inside, just magnificent saw the Had a lovely lunch in a manic cafe. Translated to minced fish for Roy was mixed pork! Spanish omelette and scallop. Back for car passing all the pilgrims. A super day!
THE CATHEDRAL
HALF OF THE ORGAN
THE TOP OF THE BOTAFUMEIRO
END OF THE CAMINO FOR THE PILGRIMS
Wednesday 18 September
Drove Roy's magical mystery tour way along the coast small roads through every town and village. Got a couple of wrong slots but finally got to Camping Paxarinas at Sanxenxo. Sky very overcast with pale sun but 24oC all the wildfires have caused it. Tiny sites, motor mover wouldn't work on one side so attempted to push in over the kerb into the site. Grabbed a man to help who went off to get another , meanwhile Roy could get car hooked up and backed it in!
Ha a lovely walk along the cliff path and saw dolphins in the bays. Spoke with an English man from Northumberland who told us about Caminha site in Portugal he had just left.
MONTALVO BEACH
ON THE SITE AND ALL OVER SPAIN, IS IT FOR HAY OR DEAD BODIES
Thursday 19 September
Sun came out after skies cleared of smoke from wildfires. Driving day went to O Grove, absolutely hectic with people and cars. A marine centre we think. Its a big fishing port.
Drove to a quiet beach for lunch then short walk then on to Con Negro for another short walk. Roy hit the car not much of a scrape in a 2m wide road he took. Stopped in Sanxenxo for supermarket and icecream but first went totally wrong and got lost up narrow one way streets in Portonovo!!! got out with Navmii.
FISH ING STATUE IN O GROVE
As well as shellfish gathering and shallow-water fishing, the population lives from the farming of mussels, oysters and scallops on wooden platforms out in the water.
CON NEGRO BEACH
SENXENXO BEACH AND HARBOUR AND ROY AND ICECREAM OOPS HGV DRIVER AT LARGE. 2M ROAD!
sunset with haze from wildfires
Friday 20 September
Cloudy odd spots of rain as we left and drove short way to Caminha in Portugal!
Campsite at side of Rio Minho and as we booked in the heavens opened! We waited then ran to car and got a site really fast and set up.
Rain stopped walked into Caminho, lovely town looked in the churches had a beer and back and realised that Portugal is same time as UK so gained an hour!
Saturday 21 September
Changed plans and decided to lose a days campsite fee and
move from Caminha to Lima Escape Camping and Glamping at Entre Ambos -Os- Rios
in the Peneda-Geres National Park. We called at Aldi on the way, much better
shopping than other supermarkets.
Weather was totally wrong, cloudy as we left and glorious sunshine when
we arrived. Had a walk round the site, then sunbathed.
Sunday 22 September
Sunny day 23oC, drove to Soajo up in the hills, looked at
the amazing Espigueiros. They are grouped on top of a granite hillock and have
central drying space which is also used for flailing. Skilfully sculptured and
meticulously constructed with interlocking joints, many of these stores have
survived for two centuries. They stand on mushroom shaped stilts to deter
rodents since they are used to store espigas (maize which is grown on the
terraced hillsides).
We started our walk, got part way, got wrong, saw lots of
cows, retraced our steps and spoke with four Americans and then two Germans who
showed us the other walk we could do. Had a laugh about using phones as opposed to maps!
Had lunch finally then headed on new trail down.
Drove along the other side of the river looking for the
church that plays music each hour and half. Found the little church at Gracao
and waited for the half hour music to be played from the four loudspeakers.
Cute! A lovely day!
Monday 23 SeptemberAnother hot sunny day, we drove to Boucas Donas after a slip
up on directions we finally found the circular concrete well where the walk
started. Fine till we started up past a stone wall that was overgrown, not as
the good old Sunflower guide book said. Stopped for lunch in the middle of nowhere and a Portuguese lady
emerged from the tall broom plants and frightened the life out of me, She was going to check the well up in the
hill as her tank was not filling, she thought there may be a fault. She told us
about the road above us. Roy went to investigate and we walked up and
left a cairn at the side of the road to show us the way down into the
scrubland. Had a walk along saw cows and horses. Spoke with a couple from
Australia, then a group of four ladies. Walked as far as the white house then
retraced our steps back. A good walk despite not as plan! About 4 miles. Ate in
the café bar.
 |
| these flowers are everywhere |
LUNCH TIME IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE
THE LOVELY PORTUGESE LADY WHO TOLD US ABOUT THE FOREST TRACK
THE FOREST TRACK
CASA FORESTAL OUR TURN AROUND POINT
THE CAIRN WE BUILT TO FIND OUR WAY BACK FROM THIS FOREST ROAD BACK TO THE SCRUBLAND
Tuesday 24 September
Rained nearly all day as we left the lovely Lima Escape campsite. Not a good day as we argued and shouted a lot especially when we went wrong in Braga so used Google to find out where we were. Finally got to Parque Cerdeira still in the Peneda - Geres National Park. 37Euros 10% off for ACSI. Site is huge but only about 5 of us on it. Wifi but no hot water. An adventure area and pool. Stopped raining had walk round the site and ordered bread rolls.
THE RAIN STOPPED AND HILLS APPEARED Wednesday 25 September
Another day of endless rain as we travelled to Chaves. First thing I found the van was leaking from the front, moped up with towels. Then we found the bathroom had a leak, Roy thinks its when he drove into the tree. Finally go to the site and picked our place in the rain. Roy got a ladder and mended hopefully the leak at the bathroom he says its cracked the roof. Gorilla glue and duct tape. He then sorted out the car connection.
PARQUE QUINTA DO REBENTIAO NEAR CHAVES
Thursday 26 September
After another endless rainy night and another leak in the
front of the van, the weather picked up and as we drove to Braganca the sun
finally arrived.
Sobre Aguas Campsite at side of the river, wifi only at bar.
Used google and found Intermarche, did bit of shopping then
found the Castle of Braganca. A lovely place to visit and all for 1 Euro each.
How not to end a good day, I went to help Roy bring pots back from washing and fell over, knee, fingers all over a little stone in the path!
Friday 27 September
Had a lovely day driving on near empty roads to Salamanca. Stopped at Miranda do Douro for a look round the town. Arrive at Don Quijote campsite Salamanca at 5pm as lost hour going back into Spain. Busiest site we've been on lots of English.
CHURCH IN MIRANDA DO DOURO
VULTURESSaturday 28 September
A superb day in Salamanca, we walked the 7km trail there
along the river and got the bus back by the skin of our teeth!
If you don’t like churches or monasteries then this is not
for you, but we have never been in so many religious buildings all in one day! Just
wonderful!
Enjoyed coffee and tapas at lunch and a superb 3 course meal
late afternoon. Such a vibrant city full of people! Loved it!
Sunday 29 September
Hot sunny day, had a pleasant drive to our last but one
campsite Monte Royal in Aguilar de Campoo nest to a big reservoir.
Not a lot of electric so left water heater off. Sunbathed
then had walk to see the church of the virgin of Llano and then sat at side of
water.
Ate in restaurant which doesn’t open till 8pm. Full of
locals, started with a burger menu then she brought the meal of the day. Good
evening, scrabble again.
Monday 30 September
Had a fast drive on motorway to our last site Camping Playa del Regaton near Laredo. Stop for coffee and short divert in to Torrelevago for diesel.
Navmii sent us off on a cart track to site, looked in book said instructions - do not follow navigation!
Had a lovely walk along the beach and back on a path then to beach for a paddle back.
CAMPING PLAYA DEL REGATON Tuesday 1 October
We had a short drive to Bilbao and got the 1pm ferry. A lovely time on board. Arrived on time at 5.30 pm the next day we drove home without any stops as such. Took 6 hours and then half an hour to back the van into our drive!
The end of a perfect holiday!
All travels have their hiccoughs here's ours
Fridge stopped working switch not active - Roy fixed it
Leak at back of van in the bathroom caused by Roy backing into a tree and cracking top of van - sorted when home
Leak started again after a days rain from top window in lounge - sorted when home
Main door catch broke but still works
Motor mover wouldnt turn on one side - Roy sorted
Roy scuffed car on a very narrow road with overhang of rocks
Roy backed van along a wooden post - no major damage
